Published 2012 Amended 2017
ωFe - is an iron based fuel additive for petrol engines
After a fairly long trial period have I noticed that iron oleate works well
in gasoline. The substance shall have lubricating properties, leading to the
pistons slide more easily in the cylinder bore. It seems correct because the
car goes quieter and smoother - and if the lubrication is improved so should
also the fuel consumption be reduced. Iron oleate does not function with
E85 and in diesel have I difficulty seeing how an oleate could contribute
with something positive, but the issue will be open until further notice.
Iron oleate dissolves best in nonpolar liquids and then laying the fuel
additive A40 in a good location. This additive is dosed sparingly in its
original form, but in that case one can select A20 instead.
The use of this additive in the motor fuel E85 may result in a poor engine
function due to sediments and clogging of the fuel system.
To manufacturing ωFe requires a little chemistry expertise. The problem is that
one must first produce olive oil soap, but when that is done does it only take a few
moments before ωFe is available. ωFe is economical and can be produced without
high consumption of expensive chemicals. These are: olive oil, sodium hydroxide
(caustic soda), methylated spirits and copperas (iron sulfate).
On the picture one can see a recent somewhat oily ωFe (iron oleate) and the solid/dry variant.
I have chosen to call this omega-Fe or an omega-additive because
it is derived from oleic acid - a carboxylic acid. Oleic acid is a vegetable unsaturated
fatty acid which can be found in olive oil. This acid is extremely useful as it also is
known as omega-3 or omega-6. The fatty acid in olive oil is, however omega-9.
Vegetable products containing omega-3 include rapeseed oil and avocado fruit.
ωFe correct name is iron oleate, which then is the iron salt of oleic
acid. ωFe and its molecule is small enough to dissolve in both naphtha's,
light hydrocarbons and secondary alcohols.
The consistent of ωFe looks like dough that consists of resin. That dough
can be baked to tablets of various forms (which, however directly adheres to
a fuel-coated surface). I have chosen to waive a tablet version because it can
take a very long time before it dissolves into a fuel and has it an unfortunate
form could it block the supply of fuel. However, it is no problem at all to
incorporate ωFe in one of my additives. ωFe is soluble in D66, T66, A40
and ISO. Since D66 also is used in combination with the glycol additives,
covering ωFe up everything (in a clever way).
Fuel additives on a row prepared with ωFe (D2a is nowadays named A40). Some color variation can be distinguished.
The base is thus a fuel additive and which is prepared by this iron salt. A
ω-additive becomes quite dark and no special marking more than the label
above exist - the color reveals what it's like.
ωFe also works together with glycol additives but not with the red glycol
or G+. As with MCO20 is also ωFe flock prone with red glycol!
The flocking tendencies for ωFe are hard to trigger but with red glycol
occurs flocculation although it may take time. ωFe together with blue
glycol (not Biltema) works well. Since ωFe should not be used in fuels
where the ethanol content is high - falls the dilemma to board ωFe with
A ω-additive can be created with for example D66 and/or A40. ISO can
keep ωFe but is not recommended, since IPA can ruin the effect of
Diesel, white spirits, lighter fluid, gasoline, IPA - are good solvents for ωFe,
while acetone and some C-spirits are not so good. Virtually all petroleum
products are good solvents for ωFe. E85 solve ωFe relatively good because
E85 contains gasoline. Ethanol (denatured alcohol) and methanol are poor
solvents, while glycol and water not can dissolve ωFe.
For petrol (gasoline).
Dose factor: 0.01
2 parts acetone
3 parts D66
5 parts petrol (V-Power or alkylate)
ωFe (soluble and separate)
sum = 10 parts
1 part A40
1 part petrol
sum = 2 parts
The disadvantage with A40 is that the additive emits omega-Fe, if it must stand
still for a while. By using a (high octane) petrol component will omega-Fe
better be solved in the liquid.
Consumption gain: 2-5 %
The content of ωFe: 300 ppm
Opening time reduction: -10 %
The result after a several tests conducted
2015 and 2016 tests were carried out with both ωFe and ferrocene in
symbiotically with dEC. The test figures showed a fuel consumption reduction
of around 10%. Later controls (2017) are against such a saving effect and all
points instead of a plus-minus zero result. If the reason is due to a malfunction
that I have made or that the commercial petrol was upgraded in 2017, I
unfortunately can not inform anyone, but it still seems possible to get an
improvement in the power output using FeTA.
Preparation step by step
If you not can buy soap based on olive oil, then you must make it by your own -
this is easy. The method is based on the production of ”hot stirred soap”, but
in this context are we not beyond ”cold stirred” which means that the washing
procedure can be abolished. The result is an incomplete crude stirred soap that
is highly alkaline and unsuitable for anything - except to make ωFe with. In
fact; up to this point occurs rarely any complications but is one intend to produce
hand-friendly soap, so it will be a number of stages beyond my instructions and
then can it be messy.
If one is more interested in hand soap is it described
at the bottom of this page, plus a couple of sidings that also are
interesting. It is easy to fall into sidings one not planned, while one are in
the process to develop something.
A batch thus consists of 100 ml of olive oil provides about 150 ml of crude
stirred soap, which is enough to at least 3000 ml of an ω-additive.
Manufacturing of caustic soda (lye)
First, one should complete the lye - that simplifies the processing. Caustic
soda is sodium hydroxide solution (white powder - the same as caustic soda) and
water! A typical ”soap simmer lye” is 30%. Thus, 30 grams of sodium hydroxide to
70 grams of water - this is called a 10.7 molar solution, which is highly corrosive
- use dishwashing gloves and eye protection! 10.7 M is equivalent of 429 grams
hydroxide per litre of water. The hydroxide is added slowly with constant stirring
in cold water. The caustic liquor becomes then very hot and unpleasant during
the hydroxide dissolves. After the reaction subsided and the liquor has cooled
has the volume changed insignificantly. If one used 70 ml of water is the
volume of the lye around 72-73 ml - afterwards.
The problem is that current drain cleaners not only are hydroxide but also
various water-insoluble substances, salt and binders. Shall only one batch be
produced (100 ml olive oil) can 23 grams hydroxide be stirred into 50 ml of
water. Sometimes consists this of lye plus amounts of insoluble substances
floating in the liquor. On the bottom of the container may it be a salt that not
can be solved - this is common table salt. The sodium hydroxide pushes away the
saline - it must go away. It is easy to sever when the lye is poured in a filter
(a coarse mesh like a reusable coffee filter or strainer) into another container.
This kind of strong caustic soda is difficult to filter so one has to use a filter
that is reasonably well adapted for the purpose. Remember not to use
aluminum utensils or coffee filters of paper. If salt is precipitated should
it be replace with new hydroxide.
Sodium hydroxide and water
Filtered lye into a measuring cylinder. Note the indwelling saline in the bottom of the beaker.
Manufacturing of crude stirred olive oil soap
The ingredients for a batch:
Is the lye ready is the half job done. Pick up a small pan made of stainless
steel and add olive oil. It is best to purchase olive oil of the more expensive
variety. It's the oleic acid we're after and it is high in olive oil. Oleic
acid tends to precipitate itself even where it is at room temperature. Bottles
that are white at the bottom reveals that it contains lot of oleic acid - select
this. Olive oil labeled ”ecological/eco/ecologico” is usually a good sign.
- 100 ml olive oil
- 45 ml lye 30%
- 35 ml methylated spirits (concentrated ethanol)
Add the lye and the alcohol together with the olive oil and stir constantly with
a spoon. To supply heat here will not accelerate the soap formation process!
After a minute or two is the soap formed - the green-red liquid thickens and
becomes leathery. Eventually is one trying to as best one can to mess around
a messy but fairly homogeneous dough-like mass. Continue to knead and
massage the dough. This is thus the crude stirred olive oil soap and can be
stored in any container (not aluminum). The soap is alkaline, which it must be
when the sodium oleate shall be translated into iron oleate, which is the next
step. Over the years has the technology for the production of olive oil soap
been refined and from what I've seen: none unreacted oil will be created.
This product can therefore be considered as 100 percent saponified. A picture
below shows a coffee filter containing unreacted ”vegetable oil”. This may be
true, but for the most part will this soap product be solved up completely in
the 140 degree water, if it just remains in there long enough?
All ingredients (measured) that shall become soap, based on 100 ml olive oil...
In the beginning it is flowing
Shortly thereafter, viscous
In order to at the end became the crude stirred olive oil soap.
Manufacturing of ωFe
Then ωFe resembles of tar in its consistency, it makes sense if one do not
have to transport it from one location to another. The solution to the problem
is that the reaction that creates ωFe takes place in a closed container and that
the pure fuel additive (gas, D66, A40 or ISO) is added in there. ωFe can then
be dissolved in it and thus be recovered as a crude ω-additive.
To clarify the different steps will I here and now prepare 400 ml ω-additive in
a Vitamin Well PET-bottle (which is a quite small batch). A container capable to
board and heat 400 ml of water is required - for example a sauce pan? Take
warm tap water so it gets hot faster. Now add the crude stirred olive oil soap
after this formula:
Weight olive oil soap (grams) = Amount water (ml) x 0.033
The factor of 0.033 applies for additives dosed with 1%! In autumn
2016 establish the final content of iron oleate and is now 300 ppm. 0.033
is the factor that gives the weight of soap from a variety of water / additive
A20. 0.030 is the minimum that still provides good fuel economy, and more
than 0.035 are unnecessary. The risk to start with 0.035 or more is that the
engine may occasionally misfire. Thus: 0.033 for A20 and 0.07 for A40
(dosed with 0.5%). Experiments have shown that it is possible to dissolve
oleate of twice the amount in A40, in addition is the layering process faster
then. Layering take place in a few hours but the disadvantage is that A40
release omega-Fe with time, if it not is used. dEC-M3 has proved to work
perfectly during tests carried out in 2016 and if one wants to use this additive
one have to produce A40 with omega-Fe first. When producing omega-Fe
for A40 is it important that the water that is used not are reduced.
Proceed as if it was about a 1% additive, ie start with 0.033 but when
the fuel additive at last is incorporated - count with 0.07 (half of the
The weight of iron oleate from a certain weight of soap stays around 70 %
- if the chemical reaction goes in the right direction... The weight of soap
in this case is thus 13 grams (divided into 400 ml). This provides
approximately 2 grams of iron oleate per 100 ml. Whatever type
of fuel additive so will the content of oleate be close to 1 gram per
gallon of gas.
Make sure to warm the water to about 140 degrees so that the soap
dissolves. On top of the soap solution flows now insoluble clumps which
means that it can take a long time before all soap is dissolved. If the soap
refused to be solved without raising the temperature so one can assume
that it is fatty lumps that have not been transformed into soap and it can
then be filtered out. We now have a bottle filled with 400 ml of warm
soapy water and that shall react with twice the weight of copperas
- that is 26 grams. A turnover reaction starts! Sodium oleate turns to iron
oleate and iron sulfate to sodium sulfate.
The solution pH during the reaction
should be 7 (neutral)! If using old olive oil may it happen that no reaction
occur between the soap/sulfate, and it can be seen by that the sulfate
just floating around in the soapy solution. The reason is that the solution
is alkaline and you have to add an acid. It is best to use sulfuric acid as
one drops in it until the sulfate begin smudging and lump together.
Battery acid is good enough but it works with Oxalic acid also - mixed
with water. A teaspoon of oxalic acid (5 ml) in 50 ml of water - about
20 ml of this per 1000 ml of solution is a good target value but may vary
from case to case. Probably is the best to immediately make soap of
your newly purchased olive oil?
You can shake the bottle now and then and wait for about 15 minutes.
Attempts have been made with a longer time but the exchange will be
the same. The risk if one waits too long is that: the solution cools so that
the melted fat (not omega-Fe) solidifies and remains in the container.
For this reason, it may be smart to be a bit over 140 degrees maybe
150-160 degrees before sulfate-contact. However, make sure that
the 15 minutes before the waiting washing-phase begins, not exceeded!
The water contains only dissolved contaminants and must be separated
from the solid content, which is iron oleat / ωFe. This tar-like smelly mass
is prone to partially stick onto the bottle walls but before the washing
process is complete flows it above the water solution.
Washing is best done by first prepares a cork with small holes. This cork is
fitted with a piece of foam that acts as a filter. If one inserts a narrow hose
through the foam rubber so will it hold the rubber in place. Now one can empty
the bottle from water without that any iron oleat comes with it. Fill the bottle
again with clear water and shake - drain the bottle (blow in the hose) and
repeat two more times. The last two rinses are done with a little alcohol
(ethanol). Shake and drain out - repeat once more. Attempts to
knead and massaging the residual ω-pulp with an oblong metallic object
(a pin, long screwdriver) in conjunction with alcohol, to remove all water.
Now is the interior of the bottle free from almost all water and one can
pour in the additive which one intend to solve ωFe in.
Although the moisture is replaced by alcohol it is difficult to remove all water.
Water in a ωFe-addition is hazardous and can cause decomposition and
flocculation! The bottle now contains approximately 10 grams of iron
oleate or ωFe. Now, fill the bottle with 400 ml of any naphtha additive and
let the iron oleate dissolve itself - this may take several hours. The result is
400 ml crude ω-additive and the color is now almost black. The last
remaining step is to separating the solid particles.
Filtered soap solution
After addition of copperas
When copperas was added formed also ferric hydroxide due to the prevailing
hydroxide excess. Ferric hydroxide is the first stage of rust and can be burned,
as well as iron oleate into oxides. Ferric hydroxide is not solvent-prone at all
and should be removed sooner or later. The particles are unfortunately very
small and can not be stopped by a fuel filter that easy. If one wait long enough
will the ferric hydroxide sink to the bottom of the current bin but it may take
several days until the separation is finished. To optimize the elimination of
ferric hydroxide may one first let the ω-additive stand for one day in a high
and transparent bottle - then gently pour the addition into an another empty
bottle. A bright light that shines in the bottle makes that one can see when
the veils of particles is on the way out, but then have one probably separated
perhaps up to 80-90%. The separation process is then repeated a second
time and then one should probably wait at least two or three days - if one
is in a hurry one can use a HEPA filter. If one waits a whole week become
the solution completely clean.
To facilitate the manufacture of ω-additives is
a manual here.
To manufacture ωFe and later a ω-additive comprises some more steps and
moments than eg producing of MCO20. One can pretend that it is an exercise in
what it means to be a chemist? Personally I think that this is a relatively simple
operation and the number of stage does not bother me. The main drawback
is the handling of petroleum products that is not really particularly healthy.
One should think of the ventilation and wear gloves whenever possible.
Instead for iron sulphate, one can test copper oleate. The result is a
greenish mass whose characteristics are very similar to iron oleate. One
application for copper oleate is to serve as a component in fuel additives, but
I prefer iron oleate that's actually seems to be a straw sharper than a
copper ditto. The substance is manageable ie easy to work with, unlike iron
oleate that feels very sticky in comparison.
Dry copper oleate ready for some additive.
In solution terms, one can consider copper oleate as if it was iron oleate or
vice versa - no difference there. The major drawback is that all copper salts
are many times more expensive than for example iron salts, so that is a
troublesome aspect. NOTE. The dosage of copper sulphate in the crude
stirred soap solution should be as large as the freely crude stirred soap was
- in quantity/weight respect, not double as is the case with iron sulphate.
Regarding the washing process: only one bottle is also okay here. So instead
of transferring the oleate to a platter one can make the final wash with ethanol
(methylated spirits) in the same bottle as it was formed in, but it does not prevent
you to let it evaporate on a platter either... There is an interesting connection
with hexamethylenetetramine (HMTA or hexamine) here. The most suitable
oxidant for hexamine is namely copper oxide. Therefore it would be interesting
to try to combine a copper compound with hexamine. However, I have not noticed
something extraordinary with copper oleate and hexamine. Maybe someone else
can figure out how it should be arranged?
Hand soap and other sidings
The step is not far from producing its own soap if we have come that far that
we have crude stirred soap according to the method described above.
When the crude stirred soap is ready can it get sit for an hour - to be absolutely
sure that the reaction has subsided. When it's time shall boiling water be
added and common salt (sodium chloride) also. For 100 ml of olive oil shall 270 ml
of water be measured, which implies that nothing has been used to produce ωFe?
The weight salt is 23 grams to 70 ml of water and should be prepared in a special
container (salt should be dissolved in water before it is turned into the soap
bath). While the hot water is added can one begin the heating too. The water
should be added slowly while stirring. When the water is added, so one can pour
the saline solution. This will now boil a few minutes - and that's it!
Boiled soap, here during the cooling
Filtered mass of soap
The point of these procedures is that the alkaline hydroxide is collected in the
water rather than in the soap. The soap will now also include salt and an
insignificant amount of hydroxide. The salt has preservative action and keeps
the soap fresh. Without preservative will soap become rancid.
Let this soap/water be cooled (put the pan in cold water). Then pour
the whole thing in a coarse filter or in a coffee filter. Most of the water will now
depart, leaving just the soap - but it's still a bit humid though. This soap
mass can now fill a form with an ordinary solid soap to be produced? If you
make this will the soap shrink considerably during the time it dries - it depends
on the high water content. One way to get rid of the water is to centrifuge
the soap mass. It may, for example making a sling - a cord which is attached
to such a coffee filter can be rotated with only manual power. So in that way
will one avoid too much shrinkage.
A mold that is made of a mackerel or herring jar works perfectly. Be careful to
avoid the formation of voids/air pockets in the mold! The soap must now lie
still at least for a day before one can shake it (gently) out from the mold.
Over the time harden the soap and it shrinks slightly. Place the soap near a
heat source and the drying process goes faster. After several weeks is the
soap finished and is then completely white.
A finished soap and the mold.
Liquid soap should be made as soon as it is new and centrifuged. There is water
to be mixed with soap mass but this should be done after a certain methodology.
If you have received a relatively porous soap mass which is centrifuged and quite
loose, so can the weight of mass corresponds to the weight of water (50/50).
As for an example shall 100 grams soap mass be blended with 100 ml water. It
is best to add the first 1/3 of the water in the soap and then heating it to
boiling - then allowing it to cool. This is repeated once more, but the final
third portion of water is added directly into the soap without any heating.
The result is smooth and homogeneous liquid olive oil soap.
Green soft soap
Is made from tall oil which is reacted with potassium hydroxide - the potassium
variant of caustic soda. It is the so-called black lye that is derived from paper
mills that the green soft soap originally comes from. The difference of a soap
which has been treated by a fat or oil and with either potassium or
sodium-based lye - is the consistency. Solid soap such hand-soaps are
based on sodium while liquid soap or soft soap are based on potassium.
When the base component of green soft soap is an potassium-ester of tall oil
(potassium resinate), it's pretty easy to let it react with copperas. The
result is iron resinate and potassium sulfate. The sulphate is water soluble and
can therefore easily be separated from the iron resinate. Iron resinate is like
iron oleate tar-like and reminiscent of tar or wood tar, but with a reddish tinge.
Like iron oleate are also iron resinate soluble in naphtha. The disadvantage of
iron resinate is that it is flocculation prone. If one mix it with naphtha will it
looks good at the beginning, but after a day or two has it usually formed
flocks and the naphtha has become cloudy.
Ointment or cream of salts from oleic acid
Resinates and oleates are not compounds that are harmful. They are actually used
as ointments for various skin conditions. Exactly how to make such an ointment
or cream I do not know but if one wants to try to use such iron oleate as an
ointment, one should reduce the dose of copperas. Add the same amount of
copperas as soap - this will give a more greasy texture of iron oleate, which is
easier to use as an ointment.
Poor man's HAMLET is actually called BAMLET
No I'm not kidding, HAMLET as I have written about in ”the news bulletin”,
which is a highly effective anti-cancer drug and that it cures at least 40 different
cancers - only consisting of breast milk mixed with oleic acid. So it is a completely
a non-toxic drug that are easy and inexpensive to manufacture. One might ask
what other good qualities such oleic acids have? This is thus about oleic acid and
protein. When oleic acid and olive oil in principle is the same thing, seemed its
raw materials are widely available.
Olive oil, rapeseed oil and linseed oil are in varying degrees carriers of these
oleic acids and these are; omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9. For those of you
who do not have access to breast milk, is the option BAMLET available - it
resembles of HAMLET but then with regular cow's milk. According to google
will also BAMLET have exhibited similar characteristics as its predecessor. BAMLET
is thus an effective cancer killer as HAMLET is - if some efforts are made one can
conclude that it is so.
So, how are we now proceed to get this mega medicine? One can assume that
such a mix of oil and milk at least bring an extremely good health to oneself and
even if one do not have cancer, so it should be preventive and also prevention
in a broader perspective? The answer is simple: Mix a protein drink with olive oil!
The method I can recommend is to move down one part olive oil in 20 parts of
cultured milk. Then filter the mixture through a coffee filter. The filtrate is
now a transparent fluid and cultured milk-tasted liquid that hopefully will
correspond to a cure of BAMLET.